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Nicosia, known locally as Lefkosia (), is the capital and largest city of Cyprus. It is located at . Located on the River Pedieos and situated almost in the centre of the island, it's the seat of government as well as the main business centre. Nicosia is the capital of the Nicosia District.
   Following the intercommunal violence of the 1960s, the capital was divided between the island's Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities in the south and north respectively. An attempted coup to unite the island with Greece in 1974 led to a Turkish invasion, leaving the capital divided since then, with Turkish Cypriots claiming the north as the capital of their own state, Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) (recognised only by Turkey). On 3 April 2008, as part of efforts to reunify the island, a symbolic wall dividing the two communities at Ledra Street was opened.
   South of the Green Line, the population of the city is 270,000 (late 2004), while a further 84,893 live in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Nicosia is important commercially with many shops, two modern shopping malls, restaurants and entertainment. The city is a trade centre and manufactures textiles, leather, pottery, plastic, and other products. Copper mines are nearby. Nicosia is the seat of the University of Cyprus (UCY) and four other universities.

History

city-state known as Ledra or Ledrae in ancient times. The king of Ledra, Onasagoras, was recorded as paying tribute to Esarhaddon of Assyria in 672 BC. Rebuilt by Lefkos, son of Ptolemy I around 300 BC, Ledra in Hellenic and Roman times was a small, unimportant town, also known as Lefkothea. By the time it received its first Christian bishop, Trifillios, in 348, the town was called Lefkousia or Ledra.
   Still known as Lefkosia, the city became the island's capital around the 10th century. It had grown in importance because of threats to the coastal cities Paphos and Salamis, which made many people flee to the centrally located Lefkosia.
   The seat of the Lusignan kings of Cyprus since 1192, it became a Venetian possession in 1489, and fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1571. Ledra is now the actual name of the most popular commercial street.
   The exonym "Nicosia" appeared with the arrival of the Lusignans. The "Frankish" Crusaders either could not, or didn't care to, pronounce the name Lefkosia, and tended to say "Nicosia". In this era of the Franks, the city expanded culturally, and in the 15th and 16th centuries, saw the erection of a number of palaces, mansions, churches and monasteries.
   Some 20,000 residents died as a result of the Ottoman siege of 1570. Man-made and natural disasters further struck the city during the 19th century. The Turks crushed the 1821 anti-Ottoman revolt in blood.
   Cholera hit the city in 1835, and fire destroyed large parts of Nicosia in 1857. The British Empire gained control over the island in 1878, with Nicosia serving as the capital of the new British possession.
   Nicosia was the scene of extreme violence in the period just prior to Cypriot independence in 1960. Since the Greek supported coup and Turkish invasion which followed it in 1974, part of the city's northern sector has been inside the boundary of a United Nations Buffer Zone.
   The tombs of the Lusignan kings are in the former Cathedral of St. Sophia, now a mosque in the northern sector.
   The core of the city also has well-preserved Venetian fortifications, built in the 16th century, which encircle the old, medieval part of the city.

Government

As the capital of the republic, Nicosia is Cyprus's political, economic and cultural centre. Greater Nicosia is subdivided into seven municipalities, but the metropolitan authority is the Municipality of Nicosia itself – within whose boundaries the Constitution states that the main government buildings and headquarters must be situated. The other municipalities in the city are Strovolos, Lakatamia, Latsia, Aglandjia, Engomi and Agios Dhometios. According to the constitution of Cyprus Nicosia Municipality was divided into a Greek and Turkish sector with two Mayors: a representative of the Greek community which was the majority, and a second one representing the Turkish community. The Mayors and the members of the Council were appointed by the President of the Republic. Since 1986, the Mayors and members of the Council are elected. The Mayor and the Municipal Councillors are elected by direct popular suffrage but into separate ballots – one for the Mayor and the other for all the Councillors. Municipal elections are held every five years. The Municipality of Nicosia is now headed by the Mayor, who is Eleni Mavrou (former lagilator of the communist party AKEL, supported by her own political party, socialist party EDEK and the Democratic Party and the council comprising of 26 councilors, one of who is Deputy Mayor. The Northern Sector has its own de facto municipality, but that municipality isn't internationally recognised because it's part of the non-recognised Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.
   The Mayor and the Councillors exercise all the powers vested in them by the Municipal Corporation Law. Sub-committees consisting of members of the Municipal Council act only on an advisory level and according to the procedures and regulations issued by the Council.
   The Mayor is the executive authority of the Municipality, exercising overall control and managing the Municipal Council. The Council is responsible for appointing personnel employed by the Municipality. All municipalities in the Republic of Cyprus are members of the Union of Cyprus Municipalities. The executive Committee is the governing organ of the Union. This Committee is appointed from among the representatives of the Municipalities for a term of two and a half years. The Mayor of Nicosia is the President of the Union and the Chairman of the Executive Committee.

Landmarks

   The new Nicosia developed outside the walls became a contemporary business and cultural centre. Just a few miles away are enchanting places of interest such as Byzantine churches and monasteries, archaeological sites and charming villages. The old walled city of Nicosia is unique and definitely the place to head for first. Encircled by strong fortress walls built by the Venetians in the 16th century, the enchanting old city is scattered with buildings and monuments of historical interest as well as little shops, cafés and tavernas.
   Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies jut from weather beaten sandstone walls, smell of jasmine flowers in those long summer evenings, and craftsmen in small workshops practice trades unchanged for centuries. 'Laiki Yitonia' - Folk Neighborhood - is a pedestrian section, which has been carefully renovated to evoke the atmosphere of past days. The two main streets of old Nicosia, Ledra and Onasagorou, are lined with shops of every type, and both streets are pedestrianised.
   Although the city has been destroyed more than once by conquerors, there are still enough vestiges to enjoy the past. History is most strikingly experienced at the Venetian city wall, which was built between 1567 and 1570 by Giulio Savorgnano. The 4.5 metres thick wall once had three gates. The Nicosia Walls served as the prototype for the Palmanova walls built afterwards by the Venetians. The Famagusta Gate is now used as a cultural centre. Some other parts of the wall contain administrative offices. The historic heart of the city is clearly found inside the walls, but the modern city has grown beyond.
   The heart of the city is Eleftheria square, Freedom square, with the city hall, the post office and the library. Adjacent Ledra street leads to the most lively part of the old city with narrow streets, boutiques, and cafés. Agia Fanomereni is a church built in 1872, built with the remains of an old castle and a convent. Here lay the remains of the Archbishop and the other Bishops who were killed by the Turks during the 1821 revolt. The Palace of the Archbishop can be found at Arkhiepiskopos Kyprianos Square and is in fact an imitation of typical Venetian style, built in 1956. Next to the palace is the late gothic St John Cathedral cathedral (1665) with picturesque frescos.
   Nicosia is also known for its museums. The Archbishop's Palace contains a Byzantine museum where the largest collection of religious icons on the island is found. Leventis Municipal Museum Other interesting museums include the Folk Art Museum, National Struggle Museum (witnessing the rebellion against the British administration in the 1950s), Cyprus Ethnological Museum (house of dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios) and the Handicrafts Center. The Nicosia Jewels Museum and the Municipal Arts Centre are both well worth a visit. The 'Levention' Municipal Museum, with an imaginative presentation of the capital's history, was awarded the title "1991 European Museum of the Year" and it's the only historical museum of Nicosia and revives the old ways of life in the capital from ancient times up to our days.
   A particularly notable museum is the Cyprus Museum, housing the island's most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic Age to the Roman Period. In contrast to these ancient finds is the State Collection of Contemporary Art, and on the other side of town, just off the main Limassol road, is the Cyprus Handicraft Center. Another is the city's renovated 'Pyli Ammochostou' - Famagusta Gate - one of the original entrances to the old city, which won the Europa Nostra award for its restoration. Many old churches are to be found in this part of town, and other places of interest.

Mayors of Nicosia

Pre-Independence (1882-1959)

Post-Independence (1959-Present)

  • Diomedes Skettos, 1959–1960.
  • George M. Spanos, 1960–1962; 1963–1964.
  • Odysseas Ioannides, 1964–1970.
  • Lellos Demetriades, December 1971–July 1974 (dismissed by the July 15 Coup).
  • Christoforos Kithreotis, August 1974.
  • Lellos Demetriades, October 1974–2001 (Elected in 1986; reelected in 1991 and 1996).
  • Michalis Zampelas, 2002–2006.
  • Eleni Mavrou, 2007–present.

    Culture

    In 2006 the Manifesta Biennale was scheduled to be held in Nicosia for a duration of three months. The project was canceled, however, with the overseas and local organizers blaming each other for its collapse.
       The city also hosted the competition of Miss Universe 2000 in Eleftheria Indoor Hall.

    Professional sport

    Clubs

    Football

    Football is the most popular sport in Cyprus, and Nicosia is home of three major teams of the island; APOEL, Olympiakos and Omonia. APOEL and Omonia dominate cypriot football. They share the record on number of championships and APOEL has the record on the number of cups. Olympiakos was also successful in the past. There are also many other football clubs in Nicosia and suburbs.

    Other sports

    Nicosia is also the home for many clubs for basketball, handball and other sports. APOEL and Omonia have basketball and volleyball sections and Keravnos is one of the major basketball teams of the island. The Gymnastic Club Pancypria (GSP), the owner of the Neo GSP Stadium, is one of the major athletics club of the island. Also, all teams in the Futsal First Division are from Nicosia.

    Venues

    Nicosia has some of the biggest venues in the island; The Neo GSP Stadium, the biggest in Cyprus, with capacity of 23,400 is the home for the national team, APOEL, Olympiakos and Omonia. The other big football stadium in Nicosia is Makario Stadium with capacity of 16,000. The Eleftheria Indoor Hall is the biggest basketball stadium in Cyprus, with capacity of 6,500 seats and is the home for the national team, APOEL and Omonia. The Lefkotheo indoor arena is the volleyball stadium for APOEL and Omonia.

    International/European Events

    Nicosia hosted the 2000 ISSF World Cup Final shooting events for the shotgun. Also the city hosted two basketball events; the European Saporta Cup in 1997 and the 2005 FIBA Europe All Star Game in the Eleftheria Indoor Hall. Another event which was hosted in Nicosia were the Games of the Small States of Europe in 1989.

    Transportation

    Nicosia International Airport hasn't been used since 1974 as it lies within the U.N. Buffer Zone separating the two parts of Nicosia. The nearest airport on the Greek administered side is Larnaca International Airport on the southern coast. Motorways link Nicosia with other major urban areas in Cyprus. The A1 connects it with Limassol in the south with the A6 going from Limassol onto Paphos. The A2 links Nicosia with the south eastern city of Larnaca with the A3 going from Larnaca to Ayia Napa. The A9 is currently under construction and would connect Nicosia to the Troodos mountains. There are many taxi companies in Nicosia. Besides the taxi companies, there's a taxi rank at the Eleftheria square(City Center), where you can find taxis twenty-four hours a day. Taxi fares are regulated by law and taxi drivers are obliged to use a taximeter. Public transport within the city is limited to an aging and inefficient (but inexpensive) bus network operated by the subsidised Nicosia Bus Company (External Link). Currently plans are underway to expand and modernise this with a European Union grant (External Link). There is no train or metro system nor plans to develop one.
       Between 1905 and 1951, Nicosia was a prominent station of the Cyprus Government Railway.

    Twinnings

  • Lisbon, Portugal
  • Schwerin, Germany (1974)
  • Athens, Greece (1988)
  • Odessa, Ukraine (1996)
  • Shiraz, Iran (1999)
  • Bucharest, Romania (2004)
  • Shanghai, China (2004)
  • Barcelona, Spain (2004)
  • Beirut, Lebanon (2004)
  • Mexico City, Mexico (2004)
  • Milan, Italy (2004)
  • Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates (2004)

    Collaborations

  • Moscow, Russian Federation (2000)
  • Nicosia, Sicily, Italy (2000)
  • Qingdao, China (2001)
  • Athens, Greece (2002, 2003)
  • Helsinki, Finland (2003)

    Famous Nicosians

  • Tassos Papadopoulos, president of the Republic of Cyprus since (2003-2008).
  • Glafkos Klerides, president of the Republic of Cyprus (1993-2003).
  • George Vasiliou, president of the Republic of Cyprus (1988-1993).
  • Ioannis Kasoulides, Member of the European Parliament.
  • Fazıl Küçük former vice president of the Republic of Cyprus (1960-1963).
  • Ferdi Sabit Soyer, prime minister of TRNC (2005).
  • Serdar Denktaş former TRNC Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign Affairs
  • Benon Sevan, ex-head of UN Oil for Food program.
  • Nicolas Economou, composer.
  • Alkinoos Ioannidis, singer.
  • Michalis Hatzigiannis, singer.
  • Stavros Konstantinou, singer, winner of Greek Super Idol.
  • Okan Ersan, guitarist.
  • Acar Akalin, singer, guitarist.
  • Hüseyin Cakmak, cartoonist, writer.
  • Alparslan Türkeş, a Turkish nationalist politician, who served as a Deputy Prime Minister of Turkey
  • Giannos Kranidiotis, a Greek diplomat and politician

    Gallery

    Image:monastiri_nicosia.jpg|The interior of Kykkos Monastery Kykkos Monastery (Metochion Kykkou), Nicosia Image:monastiri_kipoi.jpg|The gardens of Kykkos Monastery (Metochion Kykkou), Nicosia Image:municipal_theatre.jpg|Municipal Theatre during Christmas Image:Makariou_avenue_nicosia.jpg|National Bank of Greece Building, Makariou Avenue, Nicosia Image:archbishobic_palace.jpg|Archbishop's Palace, Nicosia Image:eleftheria_square.jpg|Eleftheria square, Nicosia Image:traditional_house_nicosia.jpg|Typical Traditional Architecture, Nicosia Image:traditional_door_nicosia.jpg|Detail of a Traditional Door, Nicosia Image:eklisia_palia_poli.jpg|Church in the Old City Image:green_line.jpg|Ledra Street: the end of the Greek portion of the city of Nicosia Image:al_fresco_laiki.jpg|Dining al fresco in the so-called Folkloric Area of Nicosia (Laiki Yeitonia) Image:pyli_ammochostou_lefkosia.jpg|Famagusta Gate (Pyli Ammochostou)
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